Brixham’s Secret Coves and Headland Walks

Brixham still earns its keep from the sea. The fish market is the biggest in England by value of catch, the trawlers come and go at all hours, and the harbour smells of diesel, salt and chip-shop vinegar in roughly equal measure. What a lot of day-trippers miss, though, is that within twenty minutes’ walk of the harbour you can be standing on a clifftop above a deserted shingle cove, watching a peregrine work the limestone. The best Brixham walks aren’t long. They’re just well-placed.

Shoalstone and the Walk to Berry Head

Start at Shoalstone, the seawater swimming pool at the eastern end of Brixham. It’s free, tidal, dates from the 1890s and was given a fresh lease of life by a community group after the council threatened to close it. Bring a towel even if you don’t plan to swim; the green above the pool is one of the better picnic spots in town.

From here the South West Coast Path climbs the road behind the pool and then breaks left onto grass for the steady ascent to Berry Head. It’s about a mile each way, mostly easy underfoot, with views across the whole of Tor Bay opening up as you climb. The Berry Head Cafe at the top does proper coffee and a sausage roll that hikers will appreciate.

St Mary’s Bay

South of Brixham harbour, the road climbs Mount Pleasant and drops down into the village of St Mary’s. The bay below it is one of the better-kept secrets of the English Riviera: a curve of shingle backed by sandstone cliffs, with limestone outcrops at either end. There’s no road access to the beach itself. You walk down a stepped path from the clifftop, which is part of the deterrent.

Dogs are welcome year-round on St Mary’s Bay, which makes it popular with locals walking off Sunday lunch. There’s pay-and-display parking on St Mary’s Road. The path down has steps and is not buggy-friendly, so factor that in if you’re with very young children.

Sharkham Point and Mansands

From St Mary’s Bay the coast path heads south towards Sharkham Point, a limestone headland that’s part of the same SSSI as Berry Head. The grasses up here are nationally important; in May and June you’ll spot small blue butterflies and the odd orchid. Cliff caves on the southern side house roosting bats.

Push on another mile and the path drops, sharply, into Mansands (or Man Sands, you’ll see both spellings). It’s a wide bay of dark shingle with a tidal lagoon behind it and a couple of old coastguard cottages high above. The descent is steep enough that you’ll know about it on the way back, but the reward is one of the most isolated beaches in Devon. There’s a sea cave at the southern end worth exploring at low tide; check tide times before you commit.

The full Brixham-to-Mansands circular via Sharkham comes in at about 4.1 miles with around 875 feet of ascent, allow two to two and a half hours.

Fishcombe and Churston Cove

For something gentler, head west from Brixham harbour towards Battery Gardens. The coast path here drops to Fishcombe Cove, a small shingle beach with a seasonal cafe and toilets, then climbs slightly to Churston Cove, which is quieter still. Both have woodland coming down to the shore, the kind of damp-leaf, ivy-and-holm-oak scenery that tells you you’re in South Devon.

It’s only ten or fifteen minutes from Brixham harbour to Fishcombe, so this is a good option if you’ve got an hour to fill before dinner. Park at Battery Gardens (free) or walk from the harbour past the marina.

Practical Notes for the Brixham Walks

Footwear: the limestone underfoot can be slick after rain. Walking shoes are sensible; trainers will do in the dry. The path is well waymarked throughout, but the descent to Mansands is genuinely steep, so people with knee issues might prefer the out-and-back to Sharkham Point and a stop there.

Tides: if you want to explore the caves at Mansands or the rocks at St Mary’s, aim for two hours either side of low tide. Tide times are posted at the Brixham harbour information board.

Refuelling: Rockfish on the harbourside is the obvious post-walk dinner (book ahead in summer); the Berry Head Hotel does a lighter lunch with the best terrace view in Brixham. For takeaway, Curtis’s fish and chips is a Brixham institution and is exactly where you want it to be after seven miles on the coast path.

Why These Walks Reward Repeat Visits

The reason the Brixham coves keep regulars coming back isn’t any single dramatic moment; it’s the rhythm of climb, drop, cove, climb. You’re never more than thirty minutes from a pint, but you’ll often go an hour without seeing another walker. For a town of fewer than 17,000 people, that’s a remarkable amount of usable coast. Pair this with our guide to Berry Head Nature Reserve and the best sections of the South West Coast Path through Torbay for the full picture.